25 Drayton Island – 1774 Camp

William Bartram

The Route

William visited Drayton Island several times during his travels up and down the St. Johns River both with his father (See Bartram Trail Site 24) and during his solo trip.  As previously mentioned, various records indicate that he made two trips up-river from Spalding’s Lower Store to Lake Berresford in 1774 however, in Travels the two experiences are combined and described as a single trip.  In this account of his journey, he describes stopping and camping at Drayton Island both during his upstream journey and on the return trip.  The first stop on the Island was unplanned and in response to a tempest arising from the west as he attempted to cross Lake George.  He describes passing by and then returning to Drayton Island and finding an excellent harbor near the south promontory the Island (Travels p. 102) (Figure 2).  Given these conditions, the group would likely have anchored on the south east shore in the shelter of the Island.  In his Travels, William describes making use of the time waiting out the storm to explore what he described as “the greater part of the island.”

In Travels he describes stopping and making camp again on the Island during his return trip north.  In this account, his route originated at Salt Springs in the morning, crossed Salt Cove at the northwest corner of Lake George and made landfall at Rocky Point at the northwest entrance of the St. Johns River.  After conducting a brief exploration of the area around the Point, his route continued up the west channel of the St. Johns towards Mount Royal but stopped on Drayton Island where he established his camp and spent the night (Figure 3).  This would likely have been the same spot where he camped with his father in January 1766.

The account of his visits to Drayton Island recorded in his Report vary considerably from those provided in his Travels.  In his Report (p 151), William describes leaving Mt. Royal on his first trip up the St. Johns and passing by “Draiton Isle” only to return to the Island after encountering a gale and thunder clouds arising from the southwest.  While this much of his account is quite similar to that published in his Travels, it makes no mention of having explored the Island before continuing up-river the following day.  In describing his return from his first trip south, his Report describes a route which coasted along the east shoreline of Lake George and passed by the Island without stopping (p. 154).

In the account of his second trip up the St. Johns recorded in his Report, he passed by Drayton Island without stopping as he headed south onto Lake George and was promptly forced up Salt Springs Run due to high winds.  It was during this second upstream trip that he describes proceeding up Salt Springs Run to the Spring (page 161) before continuing south.  During his return from this second trip up the St. Johns (page 163), he describes visiting today’s Silver Glen Springs (which he calls Johnsons Spring) and from there sailing directly to Drayton Island where he collected plants and seeds, but left the Island before nightfall.  In this account, he left Drayton Island and sailed across the River to a “rocky promontory” (most likely Rocky Point) but finding the shoreline too rocky and the Lake too rough to land, continued around the point to a sheltered cove (Salt Cove) where he landed and set up camp for the night.  He described spending the following morning exploring the Point and after finding some interesting plants, continuing his sail north arriving at Spalding’s Lower Store without having made any additional stops along the way (p. 163) (Figure 4).

The Site

Regardless of the sequence of events surrounding William’s visits to Drayton Island in 1774, it is apparent that the Island was a favorite of William having been visited and used as a campsite several times during his various journeys up and down the St. Johns River.  William Bartram spent a good deal of time on the Island exploring the area and recording his observations on its natural history, flora and fauna.  His descriptions of the remains of ancient Indian village and mound are interesting but today’s Island has no such remains nor any land forms that afford a view of the Lake, the east and west shorelines, the bay, cape and Mount Royal all from one vantage point, as Bartram described.

Drayton Island has no bridge connecting it to the main land, however a ferry serves the Island providing vehicular access across the east channel of the St. Johns from Georgetown to the north side of the Island.  The privately owned and operated ferry has a limited and varied schedule which is posted at the ferry landing and available through the Putnam County website.  At the time of this writing, the ferry operates only on Monday and Friday mornings and evenings and every other Sunday.  Anyone planning on visiting the island by this route should check the schedule beforehand and plan their visit accordingly.  The Island is privately owned, however there are a few public roads that allow visitors some limited exploration of the island by foot, bike or vehicle.

Bartram Trail Marker 25 is located on the east shoreline of Drayton Island about .6 miles northeast of its southern tip.  The shallow waters and aquatic vegetation along the shoreline of the Island in this area make approaching the marker difficult however it is plainly visible from the Lake’s open waters.  As with the other Bartram Site Markers on Drayton Island, viewing is by water and the most convenient launch site is the Drayton Island Ferry boat ramp in Georgetown (Figure 6).  Parking at the ramp is limited to the roadside and fills up quickly, especially on weekends. Because the Island’s only public access is at the ferry landing and because the Bartram sites are all on private property they cannot be reached by land, but only viewed from the water.  Paddlers can also go ashore at the Island’s ferry landing and explore the island on foot but, like those visiting by vehicle or from the ferry, should limit their explorations to the unpaved public roadways.

Bartrams Travels

Page 101

THE morning being fair, and having a gentle favourable gale, we left our pleasant harbour, in pursuit of our desired port.

NOW as we approach the capes, behold the little ocean of Lake George, the distant circular coast gradually rising to view, from his misty fringed horizon. I cannot entirely suppress my apprehension of danger. My vessel at once diminished to a nut-shell, on the swelling seas, and at the distance of a few miles, must appear to the surprised

Page 102

observer, as some aquatic animal, at intervals emerging from its surface. This lake is a large and beautiful piece of water ; it is a dilatation of the river St. Juan, and is about fifteen miles wide, and generally about fifteen or twenty feet deep, excepting at the entrance of the river, where lies a bar, which carries eight or nine feet water. The lake is beautified with two or three fertile islands. The first lies in the bay, as we ascend into the lake, near the West coast, about S. W. from Mount Royal, from whence it appears to form part of the West shore of the bay. The second island seems to ride on the lake before us as we enter, about a mile within it. This island is about two miles in breadth, and three quarters of a mile where broadest, mostly high land, well timbered, and fertile. The third and last, lies at the South end of the lake, and near the entrance of the river; it is nearly circular, and contains but a few acres of land, the earth high and fertile, and almost an entire Orange grove, with grand Magnolias and Palms.

SOON after entering the lake, the wind blew so briskly from the West, and thunder-clouds gathering upon the horizon, we were obliged to seek a shelter, from the approaching tempest, on the large beautiful island, before mentioned. Where, having gained the South promontory, we met with an excellent harbour, in which we continued the remaining part of the day and the night. This circumstance gave me an opportunity to explore the greatest part of it.

THIS island appears, from obvious vestiges, to have been once the chosen residence of an Indian prince, there being to this day, evident remains of

Page 103

a large town of the Aborigines. It was situated on an eminence, near the banks of the lake, and commanded a comprehensive and charming prospect of the waters, island, East and West shore of the lake, the capes, the bay and Mount Royal, and to the South the view is in a manner infinite, where the skies and waters seem to unite. On the site of this ancient town, stands a very pompous Indian mount, or conical pyramid of earth, from which runs in a strait line, a grand avenue or Indian highway, through a magnificent grove of Magnolias, Live Oaks, Palms and Orange trees, terminating at the verge of a large green level savanna. This island appears to have been well inhabited, as is very evident, from the quantities of fragments of Indian earthen-ware, bones of animals and other remains, particularly in the shelly heights and ridges, all over the island. There are no habitations at present on the island, but a great number of deer, turkeys, bears, wolves, wild cats, squirrels, racoons, and opossoms. The bears are invited here to partake of the fruit of the Orange tree, which they are immoderately fond of, and both they and turkeys are made extremely fat and delicious, from their feeding on the sweet acorns of the Live Oak.

THERE grows on this island, many curious shrubs, particularly a beautiful species of Lantana (perhaps Lant. camerara. Lin. Syst. Veget. p. 473.) It grows in coppices in old fields, about five or six feet high, the branches adorned with rough serrated leaves, which sit opposite, and the twigs terminate with umbeliferous tufts of orange coloured blossoms, which are succeeded by a cluster of small blue berries: the flowers are of various colours, on the same plant, and even in the same cluster. As

Page 104

crimson, scarlet, orange and golden yellow: the whole plant is of a most agreeable scent. The orange flowered shrub Hibiscus is also conspicuously beautiful (perhaps Hibisc. spinifex of Linn.) it grows five or six feet high, and subramous. The branches are divergent, and furnished with cordated leaves, which are crenated. The flowers are of a moderate size, and of a deep splendid yellow. The pericarpii are spiny. I also saw a new and beautiful palmated leaved convolvulus.*

* Convol. dissectus.

This Vine rambles over the shrubs, and strolls about on the ground, its leaves are elegantly sinuated, of a deep grass green, and sit on long petioles. The flowers are very large, infundibuliform, of a pale incarnate colour, having a deep crimson eye.

THERE are some rich swamps on the shores of the island, and these are verged on the outside with large marshes, covered entirely with tall grass, rushes, and herbacious plants: amongst these are several species of Hibiscus, particularly the Hibiscus coccineus. This most stately of all herbacious plants, grows ten or twelve feet high, branching regularly, so as to form a sharp cone. These branches also divide again, and are embellished with large expanded crimson flowers: I have seen this plant of the size and figure of a beautiful little tree, having at once several hundred of these splendid flowers, and which may be then seen at a great distance. They continue to flower in succession all summer and autumn, when the stems wither and decay; but the perennial root sends forth new stems the next spring, and so on for many years. Its leaves are large, deeply and elegantly sinuated, having six or seven very narrow dentated segments;

Page 105

the surface of the leaves, and of the whole plant, are smooth and polished. Another species of Hibiscus, worthy of particular notice, is likewise a tall flourishing plant; several strong stems arise from a root, five, six, and seven feet high, embellished with ovate lanciolate leaves, covered with a fine down on their nether surfaces: the flowers are very large, and of a deep incarnate colour.

THE last we shall now mention seems nearly allied to the Alcea; the flowers are a size less than the Hibiscus, and of a fine damask rose colour, and are produced in great profusion on the tall pyramidal stems.

THE Lobelia cardinalis grows in great plenty here, and has a most splendid appearance amidst extensive meadows of the golden Corymbous Jacobea (Senecio Jacobea) and odorous Pancratium.

HAVING finished my tour, on this princely island, I prepared for repose. A calm evening had succeeded the stormy day. The late tumultuous winds had now ceased, the face of the lake had become placid, and the skies serene; the balmy winds breathed the animating odours of the groves around me; and as I reclined on the elevated banks of the lake, at the foot of a Live Oak, I enjoyed the prospect of its wide waters, its fringed coasts, and of the distant horizon.

THE squadrons of aquatic fowls, emerging out of the water, and hastening to their leafy coverts on shore, closed the varied scenes of the past day. I was lulled asleep by the mixed sounds of the wearied

Page 106

surf, lapsing on the hard beaten shore, and the tender warblings of the painted nonpareil and other winged inhabitants of the groves.

AT the approach of day, the dreaded voice of the alligators shook the isle, and resounded along the neighbouring coasts, proclaiming the appearance of the glorious sun. I arose, and prepared to accomplish my daily task. A gentle favourable gale led us out of the harbour: we sailed across the lake, and, towards evening, entered the river, on the opposite South coast, where we made a pleasant and safe harbour, at a shelly promontory, the East cape of the river on that side of the lake. It is a most desirable situation, commanding a full view of the lake. The cape opposite to us was a vast cypress swamp, environed by a border of grassy marshes, which were projected farther into the lake, by floating fields of the bright green Pistia stratoites, which rose and fell alternately with the waters. Just to leeward of this point, and about half a mile in the lake, is the little round island already mentioned. But let us take notice of our harbour and its environs: it is a beautiful little cove, just within the sandy point, which defends it from the beating surf of the lake. From a shelly bank, ten or twelve feet perpendicular from the water, we entered a grove of Live Oaks, Palm, Magnolia, and Orange trees, which grow amongst shelly hills, and low ridges, occupying about three acres of ground, comprehending the isthmus, and a part of the peninsula, which joins it to the grassy plains. This enchanting little forest is partly encircled by a deep creek, a branch of the river, that has its source in the high forests of the main, South East from us, and winds through the extensive grassy plains which

Page 107

surround this peninsula, to an almost infinite distance, and then unites its waters with those of the river, in this little bay which formed our harbour. This bay, about the mouth of the creek, is almost covered with the leaves of the Nymphaea nilumbo: its large sweet-scented yellow flowers are listed up two or three feet above the surface of the water, each upon a green starol, representing the cap of Liberty.

THE evening drawing on, and there being no convenient landing place, for several miles higher up the river, we concluded to remain here all night. Whilst my fellow travellers were employing themselves in collecting fire-wood, and fixing our camp, I improved the opportunity, in reconnoitering our ground; and taking my fusee with me, I penetrated the grove, and afterwards entered some almost unlimited savannas and plains, which were absolutely enchanting; they had been lately burnt by the Indian hunters, and had just now recovered their vernal verdure and gaiety.

Page 168

THE sun passing below the horizon, and night approaching, I arose from my seat, and proceeding on arrived at my camp, kindled my fire, supped and reposed peaceably. And rising early, employed the fore part of the day in collecting specimens of growing roots and seeds. In the afternoon, left these Ellisian springs and the aromatic graves, and briskly descend the pellucid little river, re-entering the great lake; the wind being gentle and fair for Mount Royal, I hoisted sail and successfully crossing the N. West bay, about nine miles, came to at Rocky Point, the West cape or promontory, as we enter the river descending towards Mount Royal:

Page 169

these are horizontal slabs or flat masses of rocks, rising out of the lake two or three feet above its surface, and seem an aggregate composition or concrete of sand, shells and calcarious cement; of a dark grey or dusky colour; this stone is hard and firm enough for buildings, and serve very well for light hand mill-stones; and when calcined affords a coarse lime; they lay in vast horizontal masses upon one another, from one to two or three feet in thickness, and are easily seperated and broke to any size or form, for the purpose of building. Rocky Point is an airy cool and delightful situation, commanding a most ample and pleasing prospect of the lake and its environs; but here being no wood, I re-embarked and sailed down a little farther to the island in the bay, where I went on shore at a magnificent grove of Magnolias and Oranges, desirous of augmenting my collections. Arose early next morning, and after ranging the groves and savannas, returned, embarked again, and descending, called at Mount Royal, where I enlarged my collections; and bidding adieu to the gentleman and lady, who resided here, and who treated me with great hospitality on my ascent up the river; arrived in the evening at the lower trading house.

Bartrams Report

[151]

The next day sat off in company with the other boat[,] which being larger & having a good sail took me intow, in this maner we set sail leaving M’. Royal one of the finest situations on this River, went about 3 miles & entered the great lake George which is about twelve miles over either way; we set a course streight across for the mouth of the River. at other side, having passt by Draiton Isle, the wind came about a head & blowing a fresh gale from thunder clouds rising up from the S W.[,] we were obliged to put back for a harbour, but before we made the shore the gale carried a way our mast & Sail, which however we saved from going over board[,] & with great danger got into a harbour on the Island where we were detaind all night, but the storm clearing away. a calm & serene morning displayed an agreeable prospect over the wide spread waters of the lake[,] invironed with the high indented shores on every side as far as we could see.  We took advantage of the calm repose of the morning & hurried through to the opposite shore & got in the River: The even* being pleasant, & having about 6 miles to the upper Indian Store[,] we amused our selves with fishing with the bob, & took 7 or 8 large trout, & before [89] Night got to the Store, where were a number of Indians who had taken possession after the Traders left it, they recieved us seemingly in a friendly maner, & having plenty of Bear Oil we drest our fish which made us a good supper[.]

[163]

The Next morning early got off[,] padled about 2 Miles & come to the mouth of Johnsons Springs; padled near a mile up & come to a vast Fountain, almost in every respect like the other great Spring that I visited before. I went a shore, mounted very high, hills very steep next the Creek, but fell away more gradually back, & enterd a beautifull grove of Palm Trees[,] large spreading live Oaks & -Vast Laurel Magnolia, mounted a very high ridge, from whence had an almost endless view of a vast baren desart, altogether impenetrable so thickly over grown with short schrubby Oaoks, Bays[,]Yapon[,] Prinos & short laurel bushes (Magnolia Grandaflora) & c. about these hills & open groves, observed abundance of the beautiful Scarlet Sage, the beauti[fu]ll large yellow Malva, A noble, sweet sented Shrub bearing golden clustres of Flowers, Tall Apuntia, breeding plenty of Cochaniel. Returnd to my boat, & with a gentle favourable breese sailed over to Drayton Island; I landed here[,] got some Roots & seeds of some valuable Shrubs & Plants, set off and [41] By night got over to a Promontary at the mouth of the River. the shore being very rockey & the wind blowing very high[,] found it very dificult & dangerous landing, it being open to the Lake but with great struggle got round a point of Marsh, into a safe harbour by dark, here I camped all Night. Next norming I traversed about this Point[,] came to an Orange Grove, I discovered a most singular & beautifull Species of Convolvulos[.] left this place & within night got safe down to the lower Store very wet & tired, having gone through a very heavey gust of Rain. S’ Johns River[.]

Resources and Links

Travels

Bartram, William. Travels Through North & South Carolina, Georgia, East & West Florida, the Cherokee Country, the Extensive Territories of the Muscogulges, or Creek Confederacy, and the Country of the Chactaws; Containing An Account of the Soil and Natural Productions of Those Regions, Together with Observations on the Manners of the Indians. Embellished with Copper-Plates. James and Johnson Publishers. 1791.  Electronic Edition.

http://docsouth.unc.edu/nc/bartram/bartram.html

Harper, Francis, ed.  The Travels of William Bartram,  Naturalist’s Edition. Yale University Press.  New Haven.  1958.

Report

Bartram, William. Annotated by Francis Harper.  Travels in Georgia and Florida, 1773-74; a report to Dr. John Fothergill.  Annotated by Francis Harper.  Transactions of the American Philosophical Society, n.s., Vol. XXXIII, Pt. II. Philadelphia, PA, 1943.

http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015021105773#view=1up;seq=7

Additional References

Florida History Online.  New World in a State of Nature; British Plantations and Farms on the St. Johns River, East Florida 1763-1784. May 2013

http://www.unf.edu/floridahistoryonline/Plantations/plantations/Drayton_Island.htm

Bruce, F.W. Assistant Engineer, US Army Corps of Engineers. St. Johns River to Lake Harney, Florida.  1908.  The Portal to Texas History.  University of North Texas. Nautical Chart of the St. Johns River.

http://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth187523/m1/1/zoom/

Florida Museum of Natural History.  Florida Naturalists.  William Bartram.  Book of Travels. May 2013

http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/naturalists/bartramw03.htm#f